FAQ
⚡️ What is the order process like for built-to-order devices?
When placing an order for a built-to-order device, you'll need to enter your paint and knob colour preferences in the provided text field, and upload any images that you would like me to use as inspiration for the colour scheme. Uploading images is not a requirement, but it can aid me in refining your unit's appearance if you have a very specific idea in mind.
When I have received your order, I will contact you to confirm your colour choices, let you know when I have scheduled your build for, and when you can expect your completed unit to be shipped to you.
⚡️ Can I have multiple devices within one shipment?
Yes, however, it depends on whether you intend to order multiple large units, or one large unit and one small unit.
If you would like to order more than one large device (i.e., a Dragonfly and an Octarine), you will need to place an order for each one separately, as I will ship them in separate boxes.
For orders with one large device and one small device (i.e., a Dragonfly and a Spectraloom), you can order them both in the same order, as they will ship in the same box.
If you are only ordering small devices, you can have up to three or four small units shipped in one box.
With the above in mind, if you would like to order a pre-built unit that is in stock and a custom built-to-order unit, I can ship them separately or together. If you would like me to ship them separately, place two separate orders: one for the unit that is in stock, and one for the built-to-order unit. The pre-built unit will ship immediately, and the built-to-order unit will ship when it is completed. If you would like me to ship both units together, you may place both in the same order, and I will ship them when your built-to-order unit is completed.
⚡️ What is the wait time like?
In most cases, the wait time for a built-to-order device is about one month from the time of your order. However, if I am experiencing a busier-than-usual period, the wait could be longer. In either scenario, I will contact you when I have received your order to let you know when I have scheduled your build and when your order will be shipped to you.
When you have ordered a pre-built unit that is in stock, it will ship within one or two business days following your order.
⚡️ What forms of payment do you accept?
Payment can be made via credit card, PayPal, Google Pay, Apple Pay and Shop Pay (installment plans only available for Canadian residents).
⚡️ Where do you currently ship to?
I ship worldwide using Canada Post, Purolator, and UPS. Be aware that the cost to ship a device outside of North America is fairly high.
If you don't see shipping rates for your region at checkout, please let me know via the Contact page, and I will add your region.
For customers based in the US: If you choose to ship using Canada Post, duties and taxes are already included in the shipping price, as they must be paid in advance. When shipping via UPS, you will be charged duties and taxes by UPS as your shipment enters the United States.
All devices ship from Ontario, Canada, and are packed with great care.
⚡️ What are the differences between your devices?
Each of my devices expresses itself uniquely. When you view the demos for each one, you’ll notice that they each tend to hover within a particular set of colour, texture, and pattern characteristics. Sometimes there is overlap at the periphery, but overall, each device offers something distinct.
Although the core principles behind the enhancer and colour correction circuits are similar across all of these units, they are implemented quite differently—modifying and distorting the source signal’s waveform in unique ways. Some are simpler; others are more complex. These variations in circuit design, combined with the way I’ve installed each modification, result in an idiosyncratic palette specific to each machine.
The demos reflect my own creative preferences, but you can often explore further than what I have shown, discovering your own sweet spots as you tweak and combine different knobs. You’ll find that each device is an instrument unto itself—even when they share similarities. Think of it like the differences between a violin, cello, bass, or guitar: while their construction is somewhat similar, they each sound and play differently, and occupy their own distinct place in the mix.
They will also respond differently depending on the kind of source material you feed into them. I encourage experimentation, as one patch’s effect can easily blossom into something new when you try different source material. For instance, a flat, high-contrast animation or image will spawn a different kind of effect than a more dynamic source with subtle gradients of hue and luminance.
A note about the clarity of the bypassed video: With Series I devices, you’ll be able to achieve a relatively clean signal when they are in bypass mode and the effect controls are not engaged.
In Series II devices, the signal in bypass mode will always be somewhat to heavily affected. Some of the effect controls can help clean up the signal, but with these devices in particular, you’ll be working with a more distorted signal overall.
⚡️ What kinds of case finishes and aesthetic customizations do you offer?
I finish each case with automotive-grade aerosol paint and am happy to work with you to bring your aesthetic preferences to life.
I practise a variety of different layering techniques, including the use of effect coatings (e.g., coloured metal flake and holographic flake), metallics, pearls, candy coatings, and crystal FX—a solution made from urea and distilled water, which grows a crystal mask used between contrasting layers of paint. I also use a technique called grinder tattoo, where I use a die grinder to etch layered patterns into the bare metal of the case prior to painting it with transparent candy and effect coatings.
I also offer the option to sand and polish the bare metal of the case (usually carbon steel) to a near-mirror finish, which is the default for the Quicksilver. For all other devices, this is charged as an additional cost when the option is selected.
You can also request your preferred knob colour scheme and choose between different knob types (e.g., coloured speed knobs—sometimes known as barrel knobs—coloured bell knobs—sometimes known as top hat knobs—or metal bell knobs). On the Quicksilver, metal bell knobs are the default option and are available for all other devices as an add-on option at additional cost.
On my website, at the bottom of the page for each of my devices, you’ll see a selection of completed units, which will give you an idea of the kinds of looks I can accomplish. I’m also happy to explore new and different options with you—your ideas and suggestions are more than welcome!
⚡️ Do you upgrade any of the original components to extend the longevity of your devices?
Yes—in each device, I replace all power capacitors with brand-new Nichicon or Rubycon equivalents, and I replace the voltage regulators with contemporary equivalents where possible.
I also apply contact cleaner to each potentiometer to reduce or eliminate any scratchiness that may have developed over time.
⚡️ Can I send in my unmodified unit for you to modify?
Yes. If you have any of the base units that I build upon, I am able to transform it into one of my existing designs.
I can modify both 100V and 120V units, provided that they are NTSC standard devices. The PAL equivalents of a number these units feature a different circuit design, and thus my designs will not work with them.
When you send in your own base unit, I offer a discounted price.
Note: I do not offer this particular service via this store. If you would like to send in your own device for modification, please fill out the form on the Contact page or send a message to fermata.positronics [at] gmail.com.
⚡️ Is a step-down transformer necessary to operate Fermata devices?
Most of the time, yes. The majority of my designs use units from Japan, where electronic devices operate at 100V. However, I am sometimes able to source 120V base units from North America. The Quicksilver, on the other hand, always operates at 120V.
If a device rated for 100V encounter a voltage that is higher than 100V, there is a high risk that the internal electronic components—in particular the power circuit—will be damaged. Thus, a step-down transformer is required to safely operate all Fermata units, and ensure their longevity.
Here is a selection of step-down transformers that I recommend for use in different regions:
- 120V to 100V—PowerBright VC-100J/VC-300J/VC-500J
- 120V to 100V—VCT VT-200J
- 120V to 100V—Yinleader JP-500
- 110V-130V to 100V—Nissyo Industry DS-202U
- 110V-130V to 100V—Kashimura TI-351
- 220-240V to 100V—Nissyo Industry DS-202E
- 220-240V to 100V—Kashimura WT-53E
- 230V to 100V—Airlink UK-JA0050
Note: If you have ordered a Fermata device that only operates at a mains frequency of 60Hz, you will only be able to use it in a region where the mains frequency operates at 60Hz. If you operate a device rated at 60Hz in a region where the mains frequency is 50Hz (even with a step-down transformer), it could damage the AC transformer within the device.
If you live in a region where the mains frequency operates at 50Hz, please order only devices rated for use in both 50Hz and 60Hz regions (labelled as 50/60Hz). In the case of the Hither Dither, I occasionally have devices available that have been rated for 50Hz regions; these may also be used in 60Hz regions with a step-down transformer.
⚡️ Which regions will Fermata devices operate within?
All Fermata devices use the NTSC video standard, and will work with any composite video equipment from NTSC regions.
If you reside in a PAL region and do not have NTSC equipment in your setup, you will likely need to have NTSC-to-PAL / PAL-to-NTSC converters on hand for optimal operation.
Note: The Hither Dither will operate in both NTSC and PAL regions; however, the colours and textures will appear differently when used with PAL equipment as opposed to NTSC equipment.
⚡️ Is a Time Base Corrector necessary to operate Fermata Devices?
It depends on the setup that you are using your device within. If you are sending the device’s video output directly to a CRT, you will find that it operates well, with minimal dropouts.
If you want to record heavily glitched video to VHS, or capture directly using a video capture card, you will find that a Time Base Corrector can help to stabilize the signal, and allow for a cleaner capture. Be aware that using a TBC will alter the colour and texture characteristics of your visuals—sometimes in a subtle manner, and at other times more drastic.
Many composite video mixers also feature a frame synchronizer at the core of their design, and will provide some degree of stabilization. If you want the cleanest possible signal at the end of your signal chain, a dedicated TBC is the way to go.
⚡️ Why do you recommend your devices for studio use only?
The quality and stability of electrical currents at live venues can sometimes be less than optimal, and unwanted ground loops can be created, which could put your device at risk of being damaged. Due to the age of these units (approximately 40~ years old) such damage may be difficult to reverse.
In a residential studio environment, you will likely have a stable, clean supply of electricity with minimal risk to your device. If you are to use your device in a live situation, it is highly recommended that you use a high quality power conditioner, and ensure your setup is properly isolated to prevent ground loops.
In designing these devices, I have prioritized the discovery of precise sweet spots for the user to linger on and explore in fine detail, rather than creating drastic and sudden changes more suited to a high-energy live performance.